Where to eat and drink in Palacio
24 places in Palacio, Madrid: what to order, when to go and local tips.
- 01
Mercado de San Miguel
A gorgeous 1916 iron-and-glass market reinvented as a gourmet tapas hall, a step from Plaza Mayor.
OrderOysters at Daniel Sorlut, a vermut at La Hora del Vermut and croquetas at Arzábal.
- 02
Taberna La Bola
Red-fronted taberna near Ópera cooking cocido in individual clay pots over oak charcoal since 1870.
OrderCocido madrileño: the soup first, then chickpeas, veg and meats. You will not need anything else.
- 03
Café de Oriente
The terrace staring straight at the Royal Palace. You're paying for the view, and once it's worth it.
OrderCafé con leche and the house torrija with toffee and vanilla ice cream.
- 04
Casa Ciriaco
Old-school casa de comidas on Calle Mayor, famous for gallina en pepitoria and waiters in white jackets.
OrderGallina en pepitoria and callos a la madrileña: two house classics worth coming hungry for.
- 05
El Anciano Rey de los Vinos
Tiled 1909 bodega facing the Almudena cathedral: vermut de grifo, torrijas and a terrace by the palace.
OrderVermut de grifo and a regalito de torito, the oxtail-filled filo parcel. Torrija when it's in season.
- 06
Desborre
Lucía Grávalos's small dining room by the Teatro Real puts seasonal vegetables at the centre of the table.
OrderMenú Petit Desborre, or the menú vegetal for a meal built around the garden.
- 07
Santa Eulalia
A patisserie near Ópera for a classic croissant, chocolate pastry and a slower coffee stop.
OrderCroissant clásico, croissant de chocolate or a tostada with tomato and burrata.
- 08
Taberneros
A little wine-lined dining room where pringá croquetas happily share a menu with miso.
OrderCroquetas de pringá, berenjenas caramelizadas con miso and ojo de dragón.
- 09
Taberna Real
Ópera people-watching with vermut and a proper slice of Joselito.
OrderVermut de grifo, tosta de jamón ibérico con tomate and zamburiñas a la plancha.
- 10
Taberna del Alabardero
Basque cooking beside the Real, with a double bar for pintxos and rooms for a proper lunch.
OrderTorreznos con patatas revolconas, bacalao al pilpil and torrija Alabardero.
- 11
Zúccaru
A tiny Sicilian sweet shop that makes a palace walk considerably stickier.
OrderHelado de pistacho, cannolo de ricotta and brioche con helado.
- 12
Horno San Onofre
The Mayor branch, known as La Santiaguesa, is a fine excuse to take almond cake home.
OrderTarta de Santiago and rosquillas de Alcalá.
- 13
La Esquina del Real
A small French dining room where garlic butter and duck sauces reward taking your time over dinner.
OrderCaracoles con mantequilla de ajo, magret de pato con ajos dulces and tarta fina de manzana con helado de canela.
- 14
Kuraya
Creamy chicken ramen beside Herradores, with a tempting vegan bowl too.
OrderRamen Kuraya Black with ajo negro, or tantan vegano with tofu and sesame.
- 15
Taquería Mi Ciudad
The original tiny Fuentes taquería makes a strong case for another round of tacos.
OrderTacos al pastor, taco de huitlacoche and a michelada.
- 16
Café Madrid
A former café with a second life in cocktails, including coffee and vermut in the same glass.
OrderCafé Boulevardier and Opera Clover Sour.
- 17
Le Bistroman Atelier
A small French dining room where sauces, butter and a serious wine list justify dressing up.
OrderCaracoles con mantequilla de hierbas, ravioli de txangurro en bouillabesa and magret de pato.
- 18
Taberna de Ramales
A terrace for lingering on Ramales, with a long line-up of topped pinchos.
OrderPincho de bacalao gratinado and pincho de chistorra con huevo y pimiento de Padrón.
- 19
Can Punyetes
An unfussy Catalan grill where winter lunch can happily turn into a calçotada.
OrderButifarra a la brasa, escalivada and calçots con romesco in season.
- 20
Café de los Austrias
An old-fashioned café for a sweet pause on Ramales or a winter seat by the fireplace.
OrderCafé bombón and helado de turrón.
- 21
El Café de la Ópera
A hotel café opposite the Real where piano jazz turns an early evening snack into a plan.
OrderPalomitas de alcachofa con caramelo salado and ensaladilla Ópera con encurtidos.
- 22
La Coquette
A brick cellar near Ópera where the blues keeps going after your dinner plans have finally finished.
OrderA Martini or a tinto de Ribera del Duero; your drink helps pay for the blues.
- 23
Café Berlín
A serious live-music room near Ópera that hands the night over to DJs after the concerts.
Order1906 Black Coupage or a Negroni.
- 24
Casa Amante
Velvet, sour cocktails and house DJs on Calle de Santiago, for nights that have no intention of ending early.
OrderAmaretto sour and pisco sour.