Where to drink vermut in Madrid
What to order, where to go and the little things worth knowing.
- 01
El Anciano Rey de los Vinos
Tiled 1909 bodega facing the Almudena cathedral: vermut de grifo, torrijas and a terrace by the palace.
OrderVermut de grifo and a regalito de torito, the oxtail-filled filo parcel. Torrija when it's in season.
- 02
Casa Revuelta
No-frills bar under Plaza Mayor frying what many call Madrid's best tajada de bacalao, since 1966.
OrderBacalao rebozado (the reason you're here), a vermut or a caña, and a ración of callos if you're staying.
- 03
Bodegas Ricla
A tiny bodega on Cuchilleros dating to 1867: vermut, boquerones and barely room to turn.
OrderVermut de grifo with boquerones en vinagre. Then another vermut.
- 04
Casa Alberto
A red-fronted 1827 taberna on the site of Cervantes's former home, with its own vermut de grifo.
OrderVermut de grifo, pincho de bacalao rebozado, then rabo estofado or callos a la madrileña.
- 05
Bodega de la Ardosa
Tiled 1892 bodega with one of Madrid's best tortillas and a back room you reach by ducking under the bar.
OrderTortilla de patatas, salmorejo, croquetas, and a vermut de grifo or a pint of draught Guinness.
- 06
Casa Camacho
Narrow old Malasaña bodega devoted to the yayo: vermut, gin and gaseosa in a tumbler.
OrderA yayo and a gilda from the bar.
- 07
Bodega Ángel Sierra
Tiled 1917 bodega on Plaza de Chueca: vermut de grifo and pickled anchovies, as perfect as ever.
OrderVermut de grifo and boquerones en vinagre; a classic Chueca aperitivo.
- 08
La Castela
Neighbourhood taberna in the Ibiza barrio: lively front bar, calmer comedor, beloved by locals.
OrderCroquetas de carabineros, chipirones encebollados and arroz meloso con pulpo y calamar.
- 09
Bodegas Rosell
A tiled 1920 wine shop turned taberna south of Atocha, with a serious cellar and home-style cooking.
OrderBrandada de bacalao, croquetas de jamón or Cabrales, and salmorejo.
- 10
Bar Toboggan
A plaza terrace near Matadero for vermut de grifo and torreznos, with a €15 weekday menú del día.
OrderVermut de grifo, torreznos fritos de la casa and oreja a la plancha.
- 11
Merinas Bar y Ultramarinos
An old grocery reborn as the neighbourhood's meeting place, with Cádiz snacks and a very Valencian sandwich habit.
OrderBocadillo Merinas de sobrasada, cebolla y queso, mojama de Barbate and a vermú.
- 12
Casa Emilio
Two old-school bars and sharp boquerones make this one of Prosperidad's best arguments for a midday vermut.
OrderBoquerones en vinagre, patatas fritas and vermut de Reus de barrica.
- 13
El Doble
A tiled corner bar where a beautifully poured doble and a plate of prawns can derail your afternoon.
OrderUn doble, gambas de Huelva and salpicón de marisco.
- 14
La Ardosa Santa Engracia
A tiny tiled bodega in Chamberí where bravas, torreznos and vermut have the right of way.
OrderPatatas bravas, torreznos and a vermut de grifo.
- 15
Hermanos Vinagre
House escabeches and vermut give this polished Gravina bar a very Madrid reason to stop for another round.
OrderMejillones en escabeche ahumado, La Rusa and vermut de grifo.
- 16
Taberna La Carmencita
A tavern from 1854 where croquetas de chistorra and slow-cooked stews give you a reason to sit down.
OrderCroquetas de chistorra, albóndigas de ternera and callos a la madrileña; ask which stews are ready today.
- 17
Celso y Manolo
An eight-metre marble bar and a menu that gives tomatoes the attention usually saved for steak.
OrderChuletón de tomate con seis cosas ricas, croquetas de bacalao and rabas de calamar.
- 18
Bodegas Rivas
A century-old bodega where vermut and callos now share the timetable with Carmencita's brunch.
OrderGilda de sardina ahumada, callos a la madrileña and vermú de grifo.
- 19
Bodegas El Maño
A tavern dating from 1927 where callos y tortilla makes a very Madrid lunch.
OrderCroquetas de jamón ibérico, callos y tortilla, and chips de berenjena con miel de caña y salmorejo.
- 20
Casa Tabacos
A former tobacconist turned tavern by the El Maño team, with oreja at the bar and two tables tucked in the back.
OrderCanelones de ragú gratinados, oreja en adobo tostadita and vermut casero.
- 21
Los Gatos
Typewriters, clocks and a Virgin watch over the tostas at this wonderfully cluttered vermut bar.
OrderTosta de salmón, gilda and vermut de grifo.
- 22
El Boquerón
A family seafood bar where anchovies, draught vermut and the old zinc counter still do the talking.
OrderBoquerones en vinagre, gambas a la plancha and vermut de grifo.
- 23
Bodegas Lo Máximo
Boleros, vermut and a neighbourhood crowd give this old bodega plenty of reasons to stay another round.
OrderChile con carne and vermut; on Sunday, paella de pollo y verduras.
- 24
Tasca Barea
Murcian marineras and vermut anchor a tiny, friendly bar on the corner with Embajadores.
OrderMarinera murciana, pimientos del Barea and vermú de grifo.
- 25
Lolina Café
A sixties living room where a slice of cake can quite reasonably turn into a vermut.
OrderVermut Lolina and tarta de zanahoria, depending on whether your afternoon needs an aperitivo or sugar.
- 26
Casa Baranda
A Colón bar for callos, bocatas de calamares and a detour through the sherry list.
OrderBocata de calamares, callos a la madrileña and vermut de la casa.
- 27
La Colmada
Half deli, half bar: build an aperitivo from gildas, good tins and a vermut among the shelves.
OrderGilda de anchoa, sardinas en salsa teriyaki and a vermut.
- 28
La Sifonería
Siphon bottles line the room, but the prepared Zarro vermut is the reason to stop before the cinema.
OrderVermú preparado Zarro and ensaladilla rusa.
- 29
Taberna Real
Ópera people-watching with vermut and a proper slice of Joselito.
OrderVermut de grifo, tosta de jamón ibérico con tomate and zamburiñas a la plancha.
- 30
Bodegas Casas
Old bottles, vermut on tap and good tins: Pacífico's aperitivo has had a century to get it right.
OrderVermut de grifo, gildas and montaditos de anchoa.
- 31
La Casa de las Torrijas
An old tavern where torrijas and a little sweet wine make Easter a year-round possibility.
OrderTorrija de leche, torrija de vino and a copa de vino dulce.
- 32
Bar El Vermut
A small Moscardó bar where vermut and a bocadillo de oreja make a very convincing lunch plan.
OrderBocadillo de oreja, patatas bravas to share and a vermut.
- 33
Alabanda
Live blues and Brazilian cooking share this Lavapiés tavern, with the music room behind the bar.
OrderCoxinha de pollo, lasaña de bacalao con verduras and vermut Bendito de grifo.