Where to eat and drink in Chamberí
38 places in Chamberí, Madrid: what to order, when to go and local tips.
- 01
Coque
The Sandoval brothers' two-Michelin-star show, walking you from cellar to bar to kitchen to table.
OrderThe Menú Madrid tasting menu, including the family's cochinillo; add the wine pairing if it suits your budget.
- 02
Lakasa
César Martín's bistro with ambition in Ríos Rosas: market cooking, half portions, a cracking wine list.
OrderBuñuelitos de Idiazabal, the seasonal game and a tabla de quesos franceses; many dishes come in half portions.
- 03
Mercado de Vallehermoso
A 1933 neighbourhood market that quietly became one of the best places to eat in Madrid.
OrderTripea's tasting menu, with its signature ceviche caliente de mejillones al wok.
- 04
Casa Ricardo
A bullfighting tavern in Chamberí since 1935, with rabo de toro and a serious repertoire of stews.
OrderRabo de toro, callos, morcilla. Cocido only if you ordered it in advance.
- 05
Saddle
Polished Michelin-starred room in the old Jockey space: French-leaning classics and proper service.
OrderThe Menú Estaciones tasting menu; ask the sommelier to match wines to the courses.
- 06
Caja de Cerillas
Corner bistro near Olavide doing honest Spanish classics with a wink. One of Madrid's buzziest openings.
OrderHuevos estrellados con gambas al ajillo, judías de Santa Pau con costilla, and the house flan.
- 07
El Doble
A tiled corner bar where a beautifully poured doble and a plate of prawns can derail your afternoon.
OrderUn doble, gambas de Huelva and salpicón de marisco.
- 08
Taberna San Mamés
A tiny family taberna whose callos give you a very good reason to spend lunch on Bravo Murillo.
OrderCallos a la madrileña and bacalao ajoarriero.
- 09
Asturianos
Asturian stews, a glorious flan and a wine list far grander than this little dining room lets on.
OrderFabada, patatas al cabrales and flan de queso.
- 10
Casa Paulino
A family casa de comidas where morcilla lasagne makes a very persuasive case for lunch at the bar.
OrderLasaña de morcilla, albóndigas de congrio al azafrán and callos al estilo de Paca.
- 11
Monkee Koffee
Proper coffee and generous sourdough toast make this an easy place to lose a slow morning in Vallehermoso.
OrderFlat white and tostada de mascarpone, pera, mermelada de melocotón y nueces.
- 12
Trikki Nueva Orleans Traditional Cuisine
New Orleans cooking on Santa Engracia, with gumbo, po'boys and a good excuse to get icing sugar everywhere.
OrderNew Orleans gumbo, po'boy Forrest Gump and beignets.
- 13
La Dolce Fina
Italian gelato with an Argentine sweet tooth: a pistacho-and-dulce-de-leche detour off Ponzano.
OrderHelado de pistacho and dulce de leche granizado.
- 14
Chifa
A small dining room with a large appetite for mixing Latin American sharpness and Asian spice.
OrderCebiche de corvina, pulpo y vieira; dumplings chinolatinos; curry rojo de carrillada de vaca.
- 15
Pizzería Fratelli Figurato
The Figurato brothers' little original pizzeria, where Naples makes room for chorizo from León.
OrderPizza Diavola de León and tiramisú della mamma.
- 16
Taberna La Mina
A neighbourhood bar built around hot prawns, pinchos morunos and the possibility of another caña on the terrace.
OrderGambas a la plancha, pincho moruno and una caña.
- 17
The Dash
A small cocktail room off Olavide where the spirits get the attention and you can still hold a conversation.
OrderBeso de Actriz or Bier Fest; Sally Brown if you're skipping alcohol.
- 18
DeAtún
A slice of Cádiz on Ponzano, with almadraba tuna served raw, grilled and in a very unusual cocido.
OrderTataki de tarantelo, bravas con atún picante and burritos de tarantelo con pico de gallo.
- 19
Lana
An Argentine parrilla where aged beef gets its own display and you choose a handmade steak knife.
OrderEmpanada de carne cortada a cuchillo, chinchulines de lechal and ojo de bife Angus.
- 20
MO de Movimiento
Wood-fired pizzas and seasonal vegetables in a former theatre rebuilt with reclaimed materials.
OrderPizza de berenjena, puerros al carbón con romesco and buñuelos de calabacín.
- 21
Quimbaya
Edwin Rodríguez's Colombian tasting menus, with arepas and empanadas given Michelin-starred attention.
OrderOn Clásicos Q: arepa de huevo con vieira, empanada bogotana and sobrebarriga con papa nativa y hogao.
- 22
Hotel Santo Mauro
Gresca's bikini and natural wines in a palace garden, with chestnut trees doing most of the decorating.
OrderBikini de lomo ibérico and ensaladilla rusa con buey de mar y caviar.
- 23
Las Tortillas de Gabino
La Ancha's tortilla specialist, where a potato omelette gets its own variations, sauces and proper sit-down meal.
OrderTortilla velazqueña, tortilla trufada and croquetas de Idiazábal.
- 24
Bacira
Gyozas filled with cocido and lubina served as tiradito: a playful meeting of Mediterranean and Asian cooking.
OrderGyoza de pringá del cocido con salsa brava, tiradito de lubina a la bilbaína and pisco sour.
- 25
Fismuler
Dorada with almonds, escalope with truffle and a famous tarta de queso make a convincing case for dinner here.
OrderDorada semicurada con almendra y uva tinta, escalope San Román con huevo y trufa, and tarta de queso.
- 26
Fide
A proper beer bar where the tins and seafood deserve as much attention as the caña.
OrderA caña, sardina ahumada and mejillones Ramón Franco; the tins are part of the attraction here.
- 27
Arima Basque Gastronomy
Nagore Irazuegi's Basque dining room turns a gilda, a cheese croqueta and a slow meal into a very good evening.
OrderGilda Joxefa, croqueta de Stilton and pastel vasco: three good reasons to choose the tasting menu.
- 28
El Invernadero
Rodrigo de la Calle makes vegetables the main event; even the onion soup earns its place in a tasting menu.
OrderSopa de cebolla and helado de zanahoria con gazpachuelo de plancton, when included in the seasonal tasting menu.
- 29
Bar Restaurante Ponzano
A proper casa de comidas where Wednesday cocido starts with a hot mollete de pringá.
OrderCocido madrileño with its mollete de pringá on Wednesdays; callos a la madrileña if you go à la carte.
- 30
Los Arcos de Ponzano
Segovian roasts in a restaurant that was feeding Ponzano long before anyone came here for cocktails.
OrderCochinillo asado, cordero lechal asado or the Wednesday cocido madrileño; bring a proper appetite.
- 31
Papaya Destilados Artesanales
Ponzano's stop for house spirits, botanical infusions and a rum cocktail that actually tastes of papaya.
OrderEl Papayaso with ron, papaya, piña and hierbabuena; La Mula Atrevida and tequeños are good company.
- 32
La Tasquería
Javi Estévez gives offal the tasting-menu treatment, with a fried pig's head for those ready to commit.
OrderCabeza de cochinillo confitada y frita, taco de carrillera con carabinero and guiso de callos, pata y morro.
- 33
La Ardosa Santa Engracia
A tiny tiled bodega in Chamberí where bravas, torreznos and vermut have the right of way.
OrderPatatas bravas, torreznos and a vermut de grifo.
- 34
Méntrida
An Olavide terrace for tortilla and calamares, with gluten-free versions of much of the tapas menu.
OrderTortilla de patatas con pimientos, patatas bravas and a bocata de calamares to share.
- 35
Nakeima Dumpling Bar
An intimate Asian tasting counter where nigiri gets a Madrid accent and the menu keeps changing.
OrderThe menú degustación; look for nigiri de gamba al ajillo and carbonara de enoki on the changing menu.
- 36
Tripea
Eight punchy Peruvian-Asian courses at a stall in Mercado de Vallehermoso, with wok-fired mussels as the anchor.
OrderThe menú degustación: ceviche caliente de mejillones al wok, siumai de panceta y papada and bao de lomo saltado.
- 37
Casa Longinos
Almagro's lunch queue pays off in honest stews and a menú priced for people who eat out every working day.
OrderCocido madrileño on Wednesdays; pollo a la sidra or merluza a la romana when they appear on the menú.
- 38
Panadería Ciento Treinta Grados
Caramelised pastry, plenty of butter and their own coffee make this a very persuasive takeaway breakfast.
OrderKouign-amann, palmera de chocolate and café con leche.