Where to eat cocido, callos and Madrid classics
What to order, where to go and the little things worth knowing.
- 01
Casa Labra
A taberna off Sol since 1860, famous for fried bacalao and the clandestine founding of the PSOE in 1879.
OrderTajada de bacalao and a croqueta de bacalao with a caña. That's the whole order. Maybe a second tajada.
- 02
Lhardy
Madrid's grande dame since 1839: a shop counter downstairs, velvet dining rooms and cocido upstairs.
OrderConsomé poured from the silver samovar at the counter; upstairs, cocido in three vuelcos and the callos.
- 03
Casa Toni
Steel-counter offal bar off Sol where the plancha never rests and the zarajos come out smoking.
OrderOreja a la plancha, zarajos, mollejas and berenjenas fritas: offal first, with an aubergine escape route.
- 04
Taberna La Bola
Red-fronted taberna near Ópera cooking cocido in individual clay pots over oak charcoal since 1870.
OrderCocido madrileño: the soup first, then chickpeas, veg and meats. You will not need anything else.
- 05
Casa Ciriaco
Old-school casa de comidas on Calle Mayor, famous for gallina en pepitoria and waiters in white jackets.
OrderGallina en pepitoria and callos a la madrileña: two house classics worth coming hungry for.
- 06
Casa Lucio
Lucio's house of huevos estrellados, where kings, presidents and half of Hollywood queued for the eggs.
OrderHuevos estrellados: fried eggs broken over chips. The signature order is reason enough to book.
- 07
Malacatín
Run by the same family for four generations since 1895, and the cocido is the heavyweight champion.
OrderCocido madrileño in three vuelcos: soup, then chickpeas and veg, then the meats. Order nothing else.
- 08
Casa Revuelta
No-frills bar under Plaza Mayor frying what many call Madrid's best tajada de bacalao, since 1966.
OrderBacalao rebozado (the reason you're here), a vermut or a caña, and a ración of callos if you're staying.
- 09
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles
A Rastro institution since 1942, with caracoles in a spicy chorizo sauce and tables as well as a busy bar.
OrderCaracoles in their spicy chorizo sauce, bread for mopping up and a caña.
- 10
Taberna de Antonio Sánchez
Wood-panelled bullfighters' taberna in Lavapiés, pouring wine since at least 1787. Come for the torrijas.
OrderA torrija (the house legend), rabo de toro if you're eating, and a glass of house wine at the old wooden bar.
- 11
El Brillante
Atocha's chrome-counter bar: bocadillo de calamares for train arrivals, museum leavers and night owls.
OrderBocadillo de calamares and a caña. In the morning, café con leche and churros at the counter.
- 12
Casa Alberto
A red-fronted 1827 taberna on the site of Cervantes's former home, with its own vermut de grifo.
OrderVermut de grifo, pincho de bacalao rebozado, then rabo estofado or callos a la madrileña.
- 13
Casa Salvador
Bullfight posters on every wall since 1941, and the rabo de toro to match. Pure old Madrid.
OrderRabo de toro, merluza rebozada and croquetas; leche frita to finish.
- 14
Casa Ricardo
A bullfighting tavern in Chamberí since 1935, with rabo de toro and a serious repertoire of stews.
OrderRabo de toro, callos, morcilla. Cocido only if you ordered it in advance.
- 15
Caja de Cerillas
Corner bistro near Olavide doing honest Spanish classics with a wink. One of Madrid's buzziest openings.
OrderHuevos estrellados con gambas al ajillo, judías de Santa Pau con costilla, and the house flan.
- 16
Taberna Pedraza
Carmen Carro and Santiago Pedraza's polished taberna near Puerta de Alcalá, built around Spanish classics.
OrderTortilla de Betanzos, callos de ternera and croquetas de jamón de bellota; ask about the day's guiso.
- 17
La Barra de la Tasquería
Javi Estévez and Adrián Collantes's casual bar in the original Tasquería room, with offal and plenty beyond it.
OrderCallos con pata y morro, croquetas de jamón and the bikini de lengua with Comté.
- 18
Bodegas Rosell
A tiled 1920 wine shop turned taberna south of Atocha, with a serious cellar and home-style cooking.
OrderBrandada de bacalao, croquetas de jamón or Cabrales, and salmorejo.
- 19
El Horóscopo
A family dining room serving the barrio since 1970, with game dishes that deserve a look beyond the daily menú.
OrderCiervo marinado en aceite de orégano, callos a la madrileña and ragout de ciervo.
- 20
Restaurante Oviedo
An Asturian dining room by Madrid Río, with serious cachopos and a weekday menú that keeps the bill sensible.
OrderCachopo de ternera con cecina y queso Vidiago, fabada asturiana and arroz con leche.
- 21
Casa Enriqueta
Madrid's offal tradition is alive and frying here, right down to the potatoes cooked in gallineja fat.
OrderGallinejas, entresijos and patatas de la casa.
- 22
Cervecería Gonmar
Crisp oreja and proper bravas keep this small neighbourhood bar's griddle, and its counter, busy.
OrderOreja a la plancha, patatas bravas and a caña.
- 23
El Secreto de Dora
A big taberna beside the arena, useful for generous shared raciones and a terrace table with the whole family.
OrderCallos a la madrileña, lacón a la gallega and calamares a la romana.
- 24
Devinums
A roomy local vinoteca for weekday lunch, family rice feasts and the sort of terrace meal that swallows an afternoon.
OrderArroz caldoso con bogavante, setas empanadas con paletilla ibérica and huevos estrellados con jamón ibérico.
- 25
La Ancha
The Armando escalope is absurdly big; the family cooking around it is the reason to keep coming back.
OrderEscalope Armando and tortilla española guisada con almejas.
- 26
Casa Pello
A dependable Alberto Alcocer address for cocido and the sort of meatballs that require extra bread.
OrderCocido madrileño a los tres vuelcos in season, albóndigas Casa Pello and callos a la madrileña.
- 27
De la Riva
A house of stews, offal and spoken menus where lunch can happily turn into a game of mus.
OrderPecho de ternera al horno, congrio en salsa verde and natillas.
- 28
Quinqué
A small dining room with an open kitchen, a brilliant croqueta and unusually thoughtful traditional cooking.
OrderCroqueta de jamón and tortilla de merluza con pilpil y piparras.
- 29
La Fonda de la Confianza
Proper table service, orange-scented skate and offal make this a good excuse to linger off Doctor Fleming.
OrderEscabeche de raya a la naranja and mollejas de ternera apoteósicas.
- 30
Cachivache Taberna
A cheerful Serrano tavern where proper bravas share the menu with torreznos and massaman curry.
OrderBravas de Los Chicos de antes, torrezno and carrilleras al curry massaman.
- 31
Taberna San Mamés
A tiny family taberna whose callos give you a very good reason to spend lunch on Bravo Murillo.
OrderCallos a la madrileña and bacalao ajoarriero.
- 32
Casa Paulino
A family casa de comidas where morcilla lasagne makes a very persuasive case for lunch at the bar.
OrderLasaña de morcilla, albóndigas de congrio al azafrán and callos al estilo de Paca.
- 33
Las Tortillas de Gabino
La Ancha's tortilla specialist, where a potato omelette gets its own variations, sauces and proper sit-down meal.
OrderTortilla velazqueña, tortilla trufada and croquetas de Idiazábal.
- 34
Bar Restaurante Ponzano
A proper casa de comidas where Wednesday cocido starts with a hot mollete de pringá.
OrderCocido madrileño with its mollete de pringá on Wednesdays; callos a la madrileña if you go à la carte.
- 35
Los Arcos de Ponzano
Segovian roasts in a restaurant that was feeding Ponzano long before anyone came here for cocktails.
OrderCochinillo asado, cordero lechal asado or the Wednesday cocido madrileño; bring a proper appetite.
- 36
La Tasquería
Javi Estévez gives offal the tasting-menu treatment, with a fried pig's head for those ready to commit.
OrderCabeza de cochinillo confitada y frita, taco de carrillera con carabinero and guiso de callos, pata y morro.
- 37
Méntrida
An Olavide terrace for tortilla and calamares, with gluten-free versions of much of the tapas menu.
OrderTortilla de patatas con pimientos, patatas bravas and a bocata de calamares to share.
- 38
El Bierzo
Chueca's lunch stalwart has been serving proper home cooking since 1971, with riñones proudly on the menu.
OrderAcelgas al ajoarriero and riñones al jerez.
- 39
Hermanos Vinagre
House escabeches and vermut give this polished Gravina bar a very Madrid reason to stop for another round.
OrderMejillones en escabeche ahumado, La Rusa and vermut de grifo.
- 40
Roostiq
Torreznos and champagne get the attention, but the wood oven and farm vegetables justify staying for dinner.
OrderTorreznos and pizza L.P.
- 41
Taberna La Carmencita
A tavern from 1854 where croquetas de chistorra and slow-cooked stews give you a reason to sit down.
OrderCroquetas de chistorra, albóndigas de ternera and callos a la madrileña; ask which stews are ready today.
- 42
Celso y Manolo
An eight-metre marble bar and a menu that gives tomatoes the attention usually saved for steak.
OrderChuletón de tomate con seis cosas ricas, croquetas de bacalao and rabas de calamar.
- 43
Casa Hortensia
An Asturian restaurant upstairs in Chueca, with fabada, cachopo and a sidrería on the floor above.
OrderFabada asturiana, cachopo and sidra natural; arrive hungry and share the food.
- 44
Casa Orellana
A Salesas taberna for molletes and proper spoonfuls of callos, with half portions that make sharing easy.
OrderCroquetas de rabo de toro, mollete de pringá and callos, pata y morro.
- 45
Docamar
Quintana's bravas institution, where the sauce has been giving potatoes a reason to exist since 1963.
OrderPatatas bravas, oreja a la plancha and a caña.
- 46
Casa Tabacos
A former tobacconist turned tavern by the El Maño team, with oreja at the bar and two tables tucked in the back.
OrderCanelones de ragú gratinados, oreja en adobo tostadita and vermut casero.
- 47
Los Gabrieles
A tiled 1907 tavern, revived in 2026, where a minutejo is reason enough to stop at the bar.
OrderMinutejo de oreja, bocatín de calamares 2.0 and pepito de buey madurado.
- 48
Cervecería Cervantes
Cañas and hefty raciones beside the Medinaceli basilica, with no ceremony required since 1983.
OrderCaña, pulpo a la gallega and huevos rotos con jamón.
- 49
Taberna La Trucha
Smoked-fish canapés and honeyed aubergines at a 1953 tavern revived by the Casa del Abuelo family.
OrderCroqueta de jamón, berenjenas rebozadas con miel de caña and canapé de trucha ahumada.
- 50
Taberna de la Elisa
TriCiclo’s take on a 1907 tavern, where crispy oreja and battered morro give the old bar plenty of bite.
OrderOreja de cerdo crujiente con mojo, morro rebozado con salsa vizcaína and dado de bacalao crujiente.
- 51
El Pimiento Verde
The Lagasca address for those famous alcachofas and a whole monkfish worth splitting with someone hungry.
OrderFlores de alcachofa, rape sapito a la bilbaína and pantxineta casera.
- 52
La Maruca - Velázquez
Santander cooking on Velázquez, with rabas worth interrupting the shopping for.
OrderRabas de Santander, croquetas de carne de cocido and tarta de queso de Cañadío.
- 53
Taberna La Daniela
A dependable cocido address in Goya that also takes the freshly made tortilla seriously.
OrderCocido madrileño de tres vuelcos, or tortilla de patatas with croquetas de jamón for a lighter visit.
- 54
Casa Carola
Cocido in three vuelcos, served for second helpings and a very unambitious afternoon.
OrderCocido madrileño de tres vuelcos, with the welcome croqueta de cocido and copa de cava.
- 55
El Fogón de Trifón
A small family dining room where callos and rabo de toro have earned a very loyal following.
OrderCallos a la madrileña, rabo de toro and sesos de cordero a la romana.
- 56
Colósimo
The tortilla gets you through the door; the Romero brothers’ slow cooking makes you stay.
OrderPincho de tortilla de patatas, canelón de carrillera y queso payoyo, and steak tartar.
- 57
Puerta Bisagra
Three-course cocido and a proper neighbourhood dining room give chilly days in Numancia a purpose.
OrderCocido madrileño en tres vuelcos, or callos a la madrileña and croquetas de jamón.
- 58
Pancipelao
Cocido starts with a croqueta de pringá here; cancelling your afternoon plans seems only sensible.
OrderCocido madrileño en cuatro vuelcos, callos a la madrileña or rabo de toro a la cordobesa.
- 59
Las 3 RRR
A small Vallecas dining room for arroz con bogavante, lamb chops and a slice of tarta de Santiago.
OrderArroz con bogavante or chuletillas de lechal, followed by tarta de Santiago.
- 60
Las Costillas
A family grill serving Vallecas since 1994, with ribs that make the restaurant's name a useful instruction.
OrderCostillas a la parrilla, chorizo criollo and flan de queso.
- 61
Posada de la Villa
A former inn dating to 1642, now a Cava Baja asador for wood-roasted lamb and slow-cooked cocido.
OrderCordero lechal asado en horno de leña, or cocido de puchero if you've ordered it ahead.
- 62
Viuda de Vacas
A family casa de comidas with roots in 1887, for gallina en pepitoria and lunches that need plenty of bread.
OrderGallina en pepitoria, callos a la madrileña and rabo de toro: pick your stew and save room for the sauce.
- 63
Melo's
A Galician bar where the lacón-and-cheese sandwich is big enough to need a committee.
OrderZapatilla de lacón y queso gallego, croquetones de lacón and pimientos de Padrón.
- 64
Portomarín
A dependable Galician table beside the plaza, with pulpo, lacón and enough dishes to feed the whole family.
OrderPulpo a la gallega, croquetas de lacón con grelos and Martín Códax albariño.
- 65
La Oveja Negra - Taberna Vegana
A queer vegan cooperative that takes the neighbourhood taberna seriously, right down to Friday cocido.
OrderChorivegano a la sidra, tacos de jackfruit a la barbacoa and tinto de veganx.
- 66
La Falda
A very runny Galician tortilla is the headline; squid gyozas make a strong case for staying for dinner.
OrderTortilla de Betanzos, gyozas de calamar and albóndigas en salsa de coco y kimchi.
- 67
Viva Chapata
A vegan neighbourhood taberna where stuffed chapatas share the billing with a proper three-course cocido.
OrderChapata Nueva Natacha, croquetas del Viva de boletus and no calamares.
- 68
La Esperanza
Retro colours and serious callos make a good supper stop after a film at the Doré.
OrderCallos con pata y morro, croqueta de pollo al carbón and gilda de arenque.
- 69
Taberna El Sur
Eight croquetas to share and gambones al ajillo keep this much-reviewed taberna busy.
OrderGambones al ajillo, tortilla de patatas and croquetas de jamón y boletus.
- 70
Madrid 1883 Churrería
Churros with a view of the frying: this little family institution makes breakfast worth getting up for.
OrderChurros, porras and chocolate a la taza; compare the two shapes before declaring your allegiance.
- 71
Casa Baranda
A Colón bar for callos, bocatas de calamares and a detour through the sherry list.
OrderBocata de calamares, callos a la madrileña and vermut de la casa.
- 72
Cabreira
A Dos de Mayo fixture where garlic-and-vinegar potatoes and Fina’s callos outlast the neighbourhood fashions.
OrderPatatas Cabreira, callos de Fina and pulpo a la gallega.
- 73
Casa Fidel
A neighbourhood casa de comidas where chipirones and croquetas beat another fashionable lunch.
OrderChipirones en su tinta, croquetas de jamón and callos a la madrileña.
- 74
Casa Macareno
A tiled taberna where croquetas de ibérico y trufa and huevos rotos deserve more than a quick aperitivo.
OrderCroquetas de jamón ibérico y trufa, ensaladilla Macareno con bonito en escabeche and huevos rotos con gambones al ajillo.
- 75
Restaurante Manolo 1934
Argüelles still eats proper stews here, with a busy bar out front and old-school dining rooms behind.
OrderCallos a la madrileña, calamares en su tinta and tarta de queso.
- 76
Dantxari
Basque cooking, stained glass and wooden tables for a dinner that takes its time.
OrderBacalao al pilpil, chipirones encebollados and tarta de manzana.
- 77
Taberna Úbeda
A small Jaén-rooted dining room with smoky eel tortilla and meatballs worth mopping up.
OrderTortilla de anguila, albóndigas de buey and tarta de queso.
- 78
Taberneros
A little wine-lined dining room where pringá croquetas happily share a menu with miso.
OrderCroquetas de pringá, berenjenas caramelizadas con miso and ojo de dragón.
- 79
Taberna del Alabardero
Basque cooking beside the Real, with a double bar for pintxos and rooms for a proper lunch.
OrderTorreznos con patatas revolconas, bacalao al pilpil and torrija Alabardero.
- 80
Ultramarinos Pirulo
A grocery-style taberna for gildas and vermut when your Retiro walk turns into an aperitivo.
OrderGilda de anchoa, croquetas de jamón and vermut Petroni.
- 81
La Cocina de Frente
Cocido gets a leisurely procession of courses here, including ropa vieja with a fried egg.
OrderCocido madrileño and flan de huevo de caserío; leave the afternoon free.
- 82
La Campana
A marble counter, a busy fryer and the calamares bocata that makes the Plaza Mayor detour worthwhile.
OrderBocadillo de calamares and a caña.
- 83
Los Galayos
Proper callos and crisp torreznos in a grand old dining house on the edge of Plaza Mayor.
OrderTorreznos ibéricos con sal Maldon and callos de ternera a la madrileña con pata y morro.
- 84
La Carmela
A busy Victoria tavern for torreznos and oxtail, with a flamenco plan waiting downstairs.
OrderTorreznos con mojo verde, croquetas de rabo de toro and callos a la madrileña.
- 85
Puerto Rico
An unshowy Spanish dining room near Carmen for a filling lunch without the central-Madrid ceremony.
OrderTernera asada en su jugo and arroz con leche.
- 86
Taberna Malaspina
A little tavern behind Sol for the tosta of lacón and cheese that carries its name.
OrderTosta Malaspina, croquetas caseras de jamón and patatas bravas.
- 87
Museo del Jamón
The ham-hung Madrid institution in its Mayor branch: a busy counter downstairs and dining rooms above.
OrderBocadillo de jamón ibérico de bellota and a ración de queso curado.
- 88
El Quinto Vino
A wine-loving taberna that puts callos on tortilla and gives croquetas their own starring role.
OrderCroquetas de Esperanza, tortilla con callos and carrilleras al palo cortado.
- 89
Neotaberna La Fortu
A Madrid taberna giving oreja the full treatment: crisp, served whole and cut at the table.
OrderOreja crocante con parmentier trufada, soldaditos de Pavía and tarta de queso templada.
- 90
As de Bastos
A gluten-free kitchen that takes the satisfying business of croquetas and fried fish seriously.
OrderCroquetas de cocido, cazón en adobo and cachopo del Narcea.
- 91
Casa Ramona Taberna Manchega
Manchegan comfort food, village-house furniture and a weekday menú that remembers neighbourhood budgets.
OrderGachas, patatas revolconas con torreznos and tarta de queso.
- 92
Asador Casa Juan
An old-school asador for sharing a serious steak, with enough bacalao and guisos to tempt you off course.
OrderChuletón Simmental, buñuelos de bacalao and suflé de limón.
- 93
Taberna La Parra
Óscar's little neighbourhood taberna makes a caña, papas con mojo and a chat feel like a complete plan.
OrderPapas con mojo casero, oreja a la parrilla and a caña.
- 94
Casa Sotero
A Tetuán family taberna where torreznos crackle and putting callos on tortilla is entirely reasonable behaviour.
OrderTorreznos, tortilla de patatas con callos and croquetas caseras.
- 95
La Casa del Pulpo
Los Gallegos to the neighbourhood: a small bar where pulpo a la gallega has been the draw for decades.
OrderPulpo a la gallega, oreja a la plancha and pimientos de Padrón.
- 96
Bar El Vermut
A small Moscardó bar where vermut and a bocadillo de oreja make a very convincing lunch plan.
OrderBocadillo de oreja, patatas bravas to share and a vermut.
- 97
El Fogón de Usera
A family dining room by Usera market where generous stews give the menú del día its appeal.
OrderJudías pintas, pimientos del piquillo rellenos de bacalao and solomillo de cerdo al roquefort, when on the daily menu.
- 98
Taberna La Buha
Huge stuffed tortillas on Plaza de la Cebada when your La Latina bar crawl suddenly needs dinner.
OrderTortilla de queso de cabra y cebolla caramelizada, or tortilla de jamón york y queso.
- 99
Mercado de Ventas
A working fish market where Ferre y Elo can turn what you've just bought into lunch.
OrderSardinas escabechadas and boquerones en vinagre at El Bar de Ferre y Elo.
- 100
Las Jarritas
An Orense lunch counter where office workers still get proper braises for everyday money.
OrderCocido completo or carrilleras al vino tinto, according to the day's menú.
- 101
BMV
An Azca lunch room with a €14.50 menú and roast chicken that leaves room in the budget for tomorrow.
OrderSalmorejo cordobés, pollo asado de la casa con patatas and flan casero, when listed.
- 102
Cervecería El Muro
Comillas neighbours come upstairs for a proper lunch; the cocido is the reason to ask what's cooking.
OrderCocido madrileño when it's on the menú; ensaladilla rusa and tortilla vaga con alcachofa from the carta.
- 103
Casa Longinos
Almagro's lunch queue pays off in honest stews and a menú priced for people who eat out every working day.
OrderCocido madrileño on Wednesdays; pollo a la sidra or merluza a la romana when they appear on the menú.
- 104
Rambal
A long lunch over shared soperas, with proper stews and permission to have seconds.
OrderEnsalada de la casa con papada curada and lentejas estofadas, when that's the day's guiso.