Where to eat and drink in Retiro
14 places in Retiro, Madrid: what to order, when to go and local tips.
- 01
Taberna Laredo
Miguel Laredo's packed product bar by the Retiro: great croquetas, better wine, zero pretension.
OrderCroquetas de cecina, boquerones, tortilla de patata and rabas de potera con alioli de almendras.
- 02
La Castela
Neighbourhood taberna in the Ibiza barrio: lively front bar, calmer comedor, beloved by locals.
OrderCroquetas de carabineros, chipirones encebollados and arroz meloso con pulpo y calamar.
- 03
Ultramarinos Pirulo
A grocery-style taberna for gildas and vermut when your Retiro walk turns into an aperitivo.
OrderGilda de anchoa, croquetas de jamón and vermut Petroni.
- 04
Maison Glacée
Violet sweets and leche merengada become ice cream at this little Bulbiza dessert stop.
OrderHelado de caramelo de violetas, helado de leche merengada y tocino del cielo, or a bamba de nata.
- 05
La Cocina de Frente
Cocido gets a leisurely procession of courses here, including ropa vieja with a fried egg.
OrderCocido madrileño and flan de huevo de caserío; leave the afternoon free.
- 06
Horcher
Madrid's grand old dining room for pressed partridge, proper ceremony and a bill to remember.
OrderConsomé Don Víctor, perdiz a la prensa and Baumkuchen.
- 07
Murillo Café
A Prado-side bistro where Venezuelan comfort food gives the museum lunch a welcome detour.
OrderTequeños, polvorosa de pollo and fondant de chocolate.
- 08
Bodegas Casas
Old bottles, vermut on tap and good tins: Pacífico's aperitivo has had a century to get it right.
OrderVermut de grifo, gildas and montaditos de anchoa.
- 09
Oso Café
A little Peruvian coffee specialist where a cup and a bag of beans matter more than a breakfast spread.
OrderEspresso de Perú and capuchino.
- 10
Plenti
Baked eggs in little cazuelas are the point of this breakfast stop tucked behind the Prado.
OrderHuevos a la cazuela Crema, mollete de queso de cabra con mermelada de albaricoque and cortado.
- 11
Churrería La Mejor
Six in the morning in Adelfas, and someone has already put the chocolate on.
OrderPorras, churros and chocolate a la taza; the porras deserve first dibs.
- 12
Florida Park
Dinner at El Pabellón, then dancing at Florida Park: Retiro has a nightlife of its own.
OrderAt El Pabellón: croquetas de choco, ensaladilla rusa ahumada con huevo y atún rojo, and a Negroni Florida.
- 13
La Petite Sara
A neighbourhood cake café where pistachio and raspberry make a convincing case for a second slice.
OrderTarta de pistacho y frambuesa, macarons and café con leche.
- 14
Doble Uve Obrador
An obrador café where cardamom rolls and pistachio spirals make a morning off feel properly earned.
OrderRoll de cardamomo, roll de pistacho and café de especialidad.