Madrid’s oldest bars and restaurants still worth your time
What to order, where to go and the little things worth knowing.
- 01
Chocolatería San Ginés
Chocolate con churros in a green-and-mirrors parlour that has fed Madrid's night owls since 1894.
OrderChocolate con churros, or porras (the fat cousin) if the night was long. Dunk, don't sip.
- 02
Casa Labra
A taberna off Sol since 1860, famous for fried bacalao and the clandestine founding of the PSOE in 1879.
OrderTajada de bacalao and a croqueta de bacalao with a caña. That's the whole order. Maybe a second tajada.
- 03
La Mallorquina
The pastry shop right on Puerta del Sol, where Madrid grabs a napolitana on its way to everywhere.
OrderNapolitana de crema, palmera or ensaimada. For Reyes, order a roscón.
- 04
Lhardy
Madrid's grande dame since 1839: a shop counter downstairs, velvet dining rooms and cocido upstairs.
OrderConsomé poured from the silver samovar at the counter; upstairs, cocido in three vuelcos and the callos.
- 05
La Casa del Abuelo
The original 1906 taberna: sizzling gambas al ajillo and a glass of the house sweet wine.
OrderGambas al ajillo in the clay dish, gambas a la plancha, and a glass of the house El Abuelo sweet wine.
- 06
Antigua Pastelería del Pozo
Madrid's oldest pastry shop, a wood-and-glass time capsule where the hojaldre is still made by hand.
OrderBayonesa de crema or cabello de ángel, a palmera de chocolate and roscón, which they bake all year.
- 07
Taberna La Bola
Red-fronted taberna near Ópera cooking cocido in individual clay pots over oak charcoal since 1870.
OrderCocido madrileño: the soup first, then chickpeas, veg and meats. You will not need anything else.
- 08
Casa Ciriaco
Old-school casa de comidas on Calle Mayor, famous for gallina en pepitoria and waiters in white jackets.
OrderGallina en pepitoria and callos a la madrileña: two house classics worth coming hungry for.
- 09
El Anciano Rey de los Vinos
Tiled 1909 bodega facing the Almudena cathedral: vermut de grifo, torrijas and a terrace by the palace.
OrderVermut de grifo and a regalito de torito, the oxtail-filled filo parcel. Torrija when it's in season.
- 10
Sobrino de Botín
A restaurant dating to 1725, recognised by Guinness, with cochinillo and cordero from its historic wood oven.
OrderCochinillo asado or cordero asado, with sopa de ajo con huevo y jamón to start.
- 11
Casa Lucio
Lucio's house of huevos estrellados, where kings, presidents and half of Hollywood queued for the eggs.
OrderHuevos estrellados: fried eggs broken over chips. The signature order is reason enough to book.
- 12
Malacatín
Run by the same family for four generations since 1895, and the cocido is the heavyweight champion.
OrderCocido madrileño in three vuelcos: soup, then chickpeas and veg, then the meats. Order nothing else.
- 13
Corral de la Morería
The world's most famous flamenco tablao (1956), with a Michelin-starred tasting menu if you go all in.
OrderThe Compás tasting menu in the gastronomic restaurant, or a show ticket with a drink.
- 14
Bodegas Ricla
A tiny bodega on Cuchilleros dating to 1867: vermut, boquerones and barely room to turn.
OrderVermut de grifo with boquerones en vinagre. Then another vermut.
- 15
Casa Amadeo Los Caracoles
A Rastro institution since 1942, with caracoles in a spicy chorizo sauce and tables as well as a busy bar.
OrderCaracoles in their spicy chorizo sauce, bread for mopping up and a caña.
- 16
Taberna de Antonio Sánchez
Wood-panelled bullfighters' taberna in Lavapiés, pouring wine since at least 1787. Come for the torrijas.
OrderA torrija (the house legend), rabo de toro if you're eating, and a glass of house wine at the old wooden bar.
- 17
Casa Alberto
A red-fronted 1827 taberna on the site of Cervantes's former home, with its own vermut de grifo.
OrderVermut de grifo, pincho de bacalao rebozado, then rabo estofado or callos a la madrileña.
- 18
La Venencia
Sherry, chalk tabs and a gloriously dusty bar: La Venencia keeps its own rules.
OrderManzanilla or fino to start, then amontillado or oloroso, with mojama, cecina or a plate of olives.
- 19
Taberna La Dolores
Tiled-façade 1908 bar near the Prado, where the cañas are cold and the montaditos fly off the counter.
OrderA caña, a gilda and a canapé de salmón; cold tapas are the point here.
- 20
Cervecería Alemana
Hemingway's old haunt on Plaza de Santa Ana: wood panelling, white-jacketed waiters, a terrace on the square.
OrderA caña or doble, boquerones en vinagre, jamón ibérico and a ración de tortilla.
- 21
Casa González
A 1931 ultramarinos turned wine bar: cheese and conservas counter at the front, wine tables at the back.
OrderA tabla de quesos, a tin of good conservas, and a glass of Spanish wine pulled from the shop shelves.
- 22
Bodega de la Ardosa
Tiled 1892 bodega with one of Madrid's best tortillas and a back room you reach by ducking under the bar.
OrderTortilla de patatas, salmorejo, croquetas, and a vermut de grifo or a pint of draught Guinness.
- 23
Café Comercial
Madrid's grand old café (1887), all mirrors and marble, revived in 2017 and still the city's meeting point.
OrderCafé con leche and a tostada at the marble tables in the morning; later, a vermut and croquetas.
- 24
Casa Camacho
Narrow old Malasaña bodega devoted to the yayo: vermut, gin and gaseosa in a tumbler.
OrderA yayo and a gilda from the bar.
- 25
Bodega Ángel Sierra
Tiled 1917 bodega on Plaza de Chueca: vermut de grifo and pickled anchovies, as perfect as ever.
OrderVermut de grifo and boquerones en vinagre; a classic Chueca aperitivo.
- 26
Museo Chicote
1931 art deco cocktail bar on Gran Vía where Hemingway, Ava Gardner and Sinatra all drank.
OrderA dry martini or the house Chicote, made with gin, dry vermouth, red curaçao and Grand Marnier.
- 27
Casa Salvador
Bullfight posters on every wall since 1941, and the rabo de toro to match. Pure old Madrid.
OrderRabo de toro, merluza rebozada and croquetas; leche frita to finish.
- 28
La Duquesita
Gilded 1914 pastry shop, now in the hands of star pâtissier Oriol Balaguer, original counters intact.
OrderA croissant, a slice of whatever seasonal cake is in the window, and a box of bombones to take away.
- 29
Café Gijón
Recoletos's literary café since 1888, reopened in March 2026 under Cappuccino with a new menu.
OrderCroquetas de jamón from the new Cappuccino menu.
- 30
Casa Ricardo
A bullfighting tavern in Chamberí since 1935, with rabo de toro and a serious repertoire of stews.
OrderRabo de toro, callos, morcilla. Cocido only if you ordered it in advance.
- 31
Jurucha
A Salamanca family bar since 1962, with a long counter of canapés and a much-loved tortilla.
OrderTortilla de patata, the Pajarito tuna-and-mayo sandwich, and the hot canapé of langostinos con alioli.
- 32
Bodegas Rosell
A tiled 1920 wine shop turned taberna south of Atocha, with a serious cellar and home-style cooking.
OrderBrandada de bacalao, croquetas de jamón or Cabrales, and salmorejo.
- 33
El Horóscopo
A family dining room serving the barrio since 1970, with game dishes that deserve a look beyond the daily menú.
OrderCiervo marinado en aceite de orégano, callos a la madrileña and ragout de ciervo.
- 34
Mercado de Guillermo de Osma
A neighbourhood market dating to 1970, with La Pasteria 55 turning a shopping trip into a seated Italian lunch.
OrderEspaguetis a la carbonara, porchetta and tiramisú at La Pasteria 55.
- 35
Casa Enriqueta
Madrid's offal tradition is alive and frying here, right down to the potatoes cooked in gallineja fat.
OrderGallinejas, entresijos and patatas de la casa.
- 36
Marisquería Melgar
A long-serving seafood house by Puente de Toledo, with a bar for grazing and a dining room for serious rice lunches.
OrderAlmejas al palo cortado, arroz caldoso de carabineros and tarta de manzana.
- 37
La Ancha
The Armando escalope is absurdly big; the family cooking around it is the reason to keep coming back.
OrderEscalope Armando and tortilla española guisada con almejas.
- 38
De la Riva
A house of stews, offal and spoken menus where lunch can happily turn into a game of mus.
OrderPecho de ternera al horno, congrio en salsa verde and natillas.
- 39
Samm
A family rice house where paella valenciana and a long lunch are still perfectly sensible weekend plans.
OrderPaella valenciana and ensaladilla rusa con ventresca.
- 40
Fass
German comfort food beside Concha Espina, with enough sausage choices to make choosing the hard part.
OrderCodillo con chucrut and parrillada de salchichas.
- 41
Casa Emilio
Two old-school bars and sharp boquerones make this one of Prosperidad's best arguments for a midday vermut.
OrderBoquerones en vinagre, patatas fritas and vermut de Reus de barrica.
- 42
Zalacaín
Madrid's grand dining tradition still makes a persuasive case with the Don Pío búcaro and beef Wellington.
OrderBúcaro Don Pío and solomillo Wellington.
- 43
Alduccio
An Italian veteran opposite the Bernabéu, with handmade pasta and enough history for several long lunches.
OrderEspaguetis a la carbonara and volcán de chocolate con helado de vainilla.
- 44
Knight n' Squire
Fleming's wonderfully cluttered American veteran still makes room for giant hot dogs and a noisy night out.
OrderPerrito Nait especial and croquetas Nait de bacon y cheddar.
- 45
Taberna San Mamés
A tiny family taberna whose callos give you a very good reason to spend lunch on Bravo Murillo.
OrderCallos a la madrileña and bacalao ajoarriero.
- 46
Asturianos
Asturian stews, a glorious flan and a wine list far grander than this little dining room lets on.
OrderFabada, patatas al cabrales and flan de queso.
- 47
Casa Paulino
A family casa de comidas where morcilla lasagne makes a very persuasive case for lunch at the bar.
OrderLasaña de morcilla, albóndigas de congrio al azafrán and callos al estilo de Paca.
- 48
Taberna La Mina
A neighbourhood bar built around hot prawns, pinchos morunos and the possibility of another caña on the terrace.
OrderGambas a la plancha, pincho moruno and una caña.
- 49
Los Arcos de Ponzano
Segovian roasts in a restaurant that was feeding Ponzano long before anyone came here for cocktails.
OrderCochinillo asado, cordero lechal asado or the Wednesday cocido madrileño; bring a proper appetite.
- 50
La Ardosa Santa Engracia
A tiny tiled bodega in Chamberí where bravas, torreznos and vermut have the right of way.
OrderPatatas bravas, torreznos and a vermut de grifo.
- 51
El Bierzo
Chueca's lunch stalwart has been serving proper home cooking since 1971, with riñones proudly on the menu.
OrderAcelgas al ajoarriero and riñones al jerez.
- 52
Taberna La Carmencita
A tavern from 1854 where croquetas de chistorra and slow-cooked stews give you a reason to sit down.
OrderCroquetas de chistorra, albóndigas de ternera and callos a la madrileña; ask which stews are ready today.
- 53
Bar Cock
A cocktail room from 1921 with the feel of an English club and a very good reason to order a dry martini.
OrderDry martini or negroni; both belong in this room of wood, leather and long conversations.
- 54
Cervecería Santa Bárbara
Cañas, gambas cocidas and a terrace on the square: Santa Bárbara has been pouring here since 1966.
OrderGambas cocidas, media ración de torreznos and a caña clásica.
- 55
La Barraca
Valencian rice cooking since 1935, with old-school dining rooms and paellas made for sharing.
OrderDesgarrat con aceite de oliva, paella valenciana and soufflé Alaska.
- 56
Docamar
Quintana's bravas institution, where the sauce has been giving potatoes a reason to exist since 1963.
OrderPatatas bravas, oreja a la plancha and a caña.
- 57
Pastelería Mifer
A family pastry shop from 1967 where buying one merienda can easily turn into taking home a box.
OrderOreja de crema con pistacho, milhoja de merengue and a porción de Selva Negra.
- 58
Bodegas Rivas
A century-old bodega where vermut and callos now share the timetable with Carmencita's brunch.
OrderGilda de sardina ahumada, callos a la madrileña and vermú de grifo.
- 59
Bodegas El Maño
A tavern dating from 1927 where callos y tortilla makes a very Madrid lunch.
OrderCroquetas de jamón ibérico, callos y tortilla, and chips de berenjena con miel de caña y salmorejo.
- 60
El Cangrejero
An old Amaniel beer bar where a carefully poured Mahou and good tins are reason enough to stop.
OrderCaña de Mahou, sardinillas La Paloma and berberechos.
- 61
Taberna de la Elisa
TriCiclo’s take on a 1907 tavern, where crispy oreja and battered morro give the old bar plenty of bite.
OrderOreja de cerdo crujiente con mojo, morro rebozado con salsa vizcaína and dado de bacalao crujiente.
- 62
La Trainera
A Madrid seafood institution where salpicón and grilled sole do the talking.
OrderSalpicón de marisco and lenguado a la plancha; rodaballo a la Trainera if you are sharing.
- 63
Al-Mounia
A long-running Moroccan dining room where carved wood and a crisp pastela make dinner feel ceremonial.
OrderPastella farci, cuscús Fassi de cordero and té moruno a la menta.
- 64
St. James
A longstanding rice house for the sort of lunch that needs a tablecloth and a second person.
OrderArroz a banda St. James and paellerita de arroz con leche.
- 65
Formentor
A Mallorcan family bakery where an ensaimada is a perfectly good reason to cross town.
OrderEnsaimada lisa and ensaimada de crema tostada; compare them before choosing a whole one.
- 66
Casa Doli
A San Diego institution where anchovies and proper fish make a long lunch worth planning.
OrderAnchoas artesanas, flor de alcachofa con foie y jamón, and tronco de bacalao al ajillo.
- 67
Posada de la Villa
A former inn dating to 1642, now a Cava Baja asador for wood-roasted lamb and slow-cooked cocido.
OrderCordero lechal asado en horno de leña, or cocido de puchero if you've ordered it ahead.
- 68
Viuda de Vacas
A family casa de comidas with roots in 1887, for gallina en pepitoria and lunches that need plenty of bread.
OrderGallina en pepitoria, callos a la madrileña and rabo de toro: pick your stew and save room for the sauce.
- 69
El Boquerón
A family seafood bar where anchovies, draught vermut and the old zinc counter still do the talking.
OrderBoquerones en vinagre, gambas a la plancha and vermut de grifo.
- 70
Café Barbieri
A grand old mirrored café with a modern Italian appetite, just above the bustle of Plaza de Lavapiés.
OrderTortilla alla carbonara, alcachofas Barbieri and tiramisú.
- 71
Viva Madrid
An 1856 tiled tavern where Diego Cabrera pairs aperitivo classics with a proper cocktail list.
OrderMedia Combinación clásica, gilda Viva Madrid and croquetas de cocido madrileño con cecina.
- 72
Madrid 1883 Churrería
Churros with a view of the frying: this little family institution makes breakfast worth getting up for.
OrderChurros, porras and chocolate a la taza; compare the two shapes before declaring your allegiance.
- 73
Cabreira
A Dos de Mayo fixture where garlic-and-vinegar potatoes and Fina’s callos outlast the neighbourhood fashions.
OrderPatatas Cabreira, callos de Fina and pulpo a la gallega.
- 74
Restaurante Manolo 1934
Argüelles still eats proper stews here, with a busy bar out front and old-school dining rooms behind.
OrderCallos a la madrileña, calamares en su tinta and tarta de queso.
- 75
Cuenllas
A family grocer turned serious wine address, where smoked eel earns its place beside the bottles.
OrderAnguila ahumada sobre huevo revuelto and canelones de txangurro.
- 76
Mesón del Champiñón
A noisy old mesón whose griddled mushrooms earn their own pilgrimage.
OrderChampiñones a la plancha con chorizo and pimientos de Padrón.
- 77
Taberna del Alabardero
Basque cooking beside the Real, with a double bar for pintxos and rooms for a proper lunch.
OrderTorreznos con patatas revolconas, bacalao al pilpil and torrija Alabardero.
- 78
Horcher
Madrid's grand old dining room for pressed partridge, proper ceremony and a bill to remember.
OrderConsomé Don Víctor, perdiz a la prensa and Baumkuchen.
- 79
Bodegas Casas
Old bottles, vermut on tap and good tins: Pacífico's aperitivo has had a century to get it right.
OrderVermut de grifo, gildas and montaditos de anchoa.
- 80
Los Galayos
Proper callos and crisp torreznos in a grand old dining house on the edge of Plaza Mayor.
OrderTorreznos ibéricos con sal Maldon and callos de ternera a la madrileña con pata y morro.
- 81
Las Bravas
The Matheu branch of the bravas institution, where even the tortilla gets the house sauce.
OrderPatatas bravas, tortilla con salsa brava and oreja con salsa brava to share.
- 82
El Riojano
An old pastry shop with a tea room behind it and soletillas built for dunking in thick chocolate.
OrderChocolate a la taza, bizcochos de soletilla and pastas del Consejo.
- 83
Taberna La Alhambra
Granada-inspired tiles and arches give this old Victoria tavern rather more character than its neighbours.
OrderCazón en adobo, arroz caldoso con bogavante and an Alhambra Reserva 1925.
- 84
La Violeta
The tiny Canalejas sweet shop for violet sweets and the sort of Madrid souvenir that gets eaten.
OrderCaramelos de violeta and violetas escarchadas.
- 85
La Casa de las Torrijas
An old tavern where torrijas and a little sweet wine make Easter a year-round possibility.
OrderTorrija de leche, torrija de vino and a copa de vino dulce.
- 86
Asador Donostiarra
The big Basque celebration lunch: txuletón, proper fish cookery and walls full of famous diners.
OrderTxuletón de vaca vieja, kokotxas de merluza al pil-pil and tortilla de bacalao.
- 87
Mercado Maravillas
A working food market where the weekly shop can turn into a Venezuelan empanada lunch.
OrderEmpanada de pabellón and cachapa con queso at El Empanadazo.
- 88
Mesón Txistu
Basque cooking, football photographs and a chuletón built for the sort of lunch that cancels your afternoon.
OrderChuletón Txistu para dos, tortilla de bacalao and besugo a la espalda, ordered ahead.
- 89
Casa Sotero
A Tetuán family taberna where torreznos crackle and putting callos on tortilla is entirely reasonable behaviour.
OrderTorreznos, tortilla de patatas con callos and croquetas caseras.
- 90
La Casa del Pulpo
Los Gallegos to the neighbourhood: a small bar where pulpo a la gallega has been the draw for decades.
OrderPulpo a la gallega, oreja a la plancha and pimientos de Padrón.
- 91
Churrería Quinta Generación
Antonio de Leyva's early chocolate stop, where the morning revolves around churros and porras.
OrderChurros, porras and chocolate a la taza.
- 92
Mercado de Chamartín
Choose a cut at Raza Nostra, then let Arribistas grill it while the market pauses for lunch.
OrderChuleta a la brasa and alcachofa braseada con panceta ibérica at Arribistas.
- 93
La Cañada
A Galician lunch stop by El Carmen where even pulpo comes with the practical comforts of a set menú.
OrderCaldo gallego when it's on, then pulpo a la gallega in the special menú.
- 94
Las Jarritas
An Orense lunch counter where office workers still get proper braises for everyday money.
OrderCocido completo or carrilleras al vino tinto, according to the day's menú.
- 95
El Tera
Sanabria roots and proper home cooking keep this Argüelles lunch room useful long after the fashions move on.
OrderCroquetas caseras de jamón y pollo or solomillo en salsa de setas, then flan, when on the menú.
- 96
Churrería La Andaluza
The breakfast detour beside Maravillas: hand-shaped porras and the buñuelos many churrerías have forgotten.
OrderBuñuelos, porras and chocolate a la taza.
- 97
Pastelería Longinos
A family pastry name with nearly a century behind it and a wonderfully excessive choice of palmeritas.
OrderPalmera de dos chocolates and longinitos artesanos.